Distributor frozen in GPA engine block

[GPA2077]

During an attempt to retime my GPA engine, I discovered that the distributor was frozen in the block. I removed both the clinch plate bolt and the bolt securing the clinch plate to the block. The clinch plate origionally was found frozen to the block. I was able to free the plate which now rotates freely on the distributor. I have used PB Blaster freely after heating the distributor boss with a propane torch on and off for three days with no success. Does anyone have any suggestions short of removing the engine again??


Thanks,

Russ

[bobassel]

Hi Russ
Do I understand correctly that your distributor is still frozen in the engine block ?
In that case I have the experiance to spray a lot of " IMALL " penetrating oil on distributer / engine seam
and remove the oil pump.
After some time try carefully , without damaging the distributer shaft, with a (wooden) shaft to hammer out the
distributer from the oil pump side.

Bob ( p.m. send)

[GPA2077]

Still no luck at freeing the distributor. In the GPA, access thru the oil pump hole is impossible with the engine installed. My latest attempt was to modify a 1 1/2" crowfoot open end wrench to cradle the underside of the distributor body. I then made a custom slide hammer which extends thru the hood. I can deliver as much force as I could driving thru the oil pump hole and not fear breaking off the distributor drive tang. Short of explosives, I have run out off s. Anyone have any s?

What is IMALL? Is it a European product? I can not find it on the Internet.

[bobassel]

Hi Russ
I 'm sorry that it didn 't work out !
Yes, with the engine still in place it is a terrible job
Imall is a name for a good penetrating oil that solves rust and stuck items like your distributor.
I had the same problem but I took the engine out and hammered from the oil pump side in combination
with the Imall oil and this worked with my engine.
There must be a same product like Imall in the States.
If you find such a penetrating oil spray it for several days on the seam engine / distributor.
Pharhaps you can try carefully with a big pair of tongs (with teeth) to turn the distributor.
(I don't think that heating with a flame will work and this is risky)
Good luck and please keep us posted with your problem !
Bob

[Donovan]

Russ,

An excellent penetrant here in the US is Kroil. You just have to have patience and let the penetrant work. If it were me, I would spray it daily for a week and then try and rotate it with a strap wrench. If it still won't budge then I would talk to a good machinist/welder and they may be able to fabricate something to the put constatnt pressure on the distributor. Otherwise you will have to remove the engine and take it to a machine shop for removal.

Good luck,

Donovan.

[GPA2077]

I am currently using a product called PB Blaster. I have had excellent luck with this penetrating oil over the years. I will give Kroil a shot if I can locate it. Maybe available on line. Thanks for the tip.

Russ

[GPA2077]

Eureka!!! I finally removed the distributor without removing the engine. It took a combination of 5 elements. One, a liberal use of PB Blaster. Two, a liberal use of Kroil. Three, use of my slide hammer, refered to in an earlier post. Four, application of torsion thru a fabricated leather strap wrench. And five, patience. Almost three weeks worth. If anyone has a similar problem, I would be happy to share my tool details.

[Donovan]

Russ,

Congratulations! The penetrants you used do work if given time. For some less patient people, they attempt to use too much force and something breaks! I would thoughly inspect everything and make sure you do not have a water leak in the distributor tube area which I believe is not that uncommon for these engines but can be fixed relatively easily (see G503 for GPWs and MB Technical Forum).

Good luck,

Donovan

[bobassel]

Russ, nice to hear you it worked out fine !
Did you receive my P.M. ?
Bob